I’m back from the Bahamas. Back to life, back to re-al-ity.
I’ve never had a vacation like the one I had in the Bahamas, specifically on the island of Andros. Since Andros is a less developed, non-commercialized area (and the least explored island in the Bahamas, according to wiki), it was so much easier to get in tune with the locals. I’ve never met such friendly people, and it was awesome being able to hang out with them in their natural milieu, none of which is catered to tourism. I got a real sense of what it’s like to live on Andros instead of what it’s like to be a tourist in it. Life moves slowly, everyone is family, and you have the whole, unspoiled beach to yourself.
Of course there was a lot of relaxing on the beach, but it was the activity that made this vacation worth it. I finally got SCUBA certified, diving in the third largest barrier reef in the world. Plus, I got to go spearfishing, which entails free diving underwater with a sling shot and spear to shoot at fish, aka dinner (it reminded me of the book The Hatchet). There’s something about getting back to your primitive roots a la “Into the Wild” that’s pretty thrilling.
It bears mentioning once again how crazy friendly everyone on Andros is. Maybe it’s the fact that there aren’t a lot of tourists there (there were about five other people staying in the hotel at the time), but the locals were so eager to show us around and give us a glimpse of all their favorite spots. You don’t need a car because you can hitch hike your way anywhere. When I went running in the morning, I waved at every car that passed by just because that’s how they do it on Andros.
I definitely miss it, and I recommend Andros to anyone looking for a tropical getaway – a true getaway from big business, traffic, tourism, and the hustle and bustle. Forego Nassau, which is just a watered down version of the Bahamas (I visited on my last day and it turned me off), and visit Andros to get the real Bahamian experience.
I created a log of my trip. If interested, partake:
Saturday: After about fifteen hours of flights and layovers, arrived at Nassau, Bahamas. Stayed the night at Coral Harbor Beach Villas, which was worth as much as it cost – cheap. Watched the sunset and lay in a hammock for initiation.
Sunday: Flew to Andros, the largest island in the Bahamas and far less commercialized/inhabited than Nassau. To be more specific, flew to Congo Town, which is in the south of Andros. Arrived at Emerald Palms Hotel (top-rated according to tripadvisor.com) and immediately taught the bartender how to make mimosas. Enjoyed a couple of mimosas in the morning. Took a nap; naptime = crazy delicious. Never been in such deep sleeps or had such vivid dreams before. Woke up, chilled by the beach. More mimosas. At night, went with Shirley, the cab driver, to get some lobster at her friend’s bar. Shot pool, got pwned by a local named Wade. Ate conch salad and lobster stuffed with potatoes and herbs. Afterward, went with Shirley to play her “numbers” (Bahamian Lotto) at a local make-shift casino.
Monday: Woke up at 8am to meet with Jesse, the scuba diving instructor. Went over certification material for four hours and passed the written test (phew). Embarked on two dives, one to test underwater skills and the other to chill out and enjoy the marine life. Took photos of random fish. Most noteworthy were a turtle and a green moray eel. The eel freaked me out because it looked really mean. Scuba diving is the most peaceful activity – a whole underwater world to explore with nothing to hear but the sound of your own breathing. After learning about how not to disturb coral and threaten fish, I kept saying to myself “you have to respect the sea.” (haha)
At night, drove with Debbie, a hotel worker, and her friend, Alexia, to the Mars Bay blue hole. All the water from the area had receded from the beach, except for the blue hole, which is just what it sounds like – a huge cavern-like hole filled with water hundreds of feet deep. Stopped by the Cabana Club on the way home to shoot pool. Came back to the hotel to eat specially ordered jerk chicken. Subsequently surprised to find the dish cost $28.
Tuesday: Woke up and relaxed by the pool. Headed out to scuba dive in the afternoon. On the first dive, saw a bunch of sting rays (or manta rays?). The first one suddenly appeared behind me, I think I disturbed it unwittingly because it was buried in the sand. Shivered my ass off getting out of the water – the ocean water is so warm but getting onto the boat and drying off gets freezing. On the second dive, dived into a blue hole. It was trippy descending down into it because it’s pitch black. Saw a huge lobster hiding in a crevice, as well as a school of barracuda. Upon completing this last dive, officially got SCUBA certified. I’ve wanted to get certified for a long time, so I was really stoked. Came back to the hotel, ate some instant ramen (hit the spot) and took a nap. Woke up, ate a dinner of red snapper and macaroni and cheese, topped off with chocolate cake. Downed a bottle of cabernet and went into a deep sleep.
Wednesday: Went to visit Kemp’s Bay in the morning because people kept saying it was the best beach around. Took a ride in the hotel owner’s van to meet Shirley, our airport cab driver, for lunch at Skipper’s, but forgot where it was. Ended up feeling bad for making the hotel owner drive back and forth, so got off at Club Cabana to find it by walking. Hitchhiked a ride from a local who knew where she was going. Kemp’s Bay turned out to have no sand to lie on. Picked up some lunch at a primary school (fried chicken, rice, and mac & cheese) and hitchhiked a ride back to the hotel (such nice locals!). Lay out in the sun and kayaked for a while. Ate steak for dinner and ended the night with a bottle of pinot grigio and “Aladdin”.
Thursday: Tempted to stay in bed all morning because it was so chilly outside. Instead, got my butt in gear and kayaked. Once outside and in the water, it wasn’t bad at all. Funny how all the locals refuse to go in the water because it’s so cold. In the afternoon, went out with Roosevelt and Mykell to spearfish. Shot two fish. Nothing like the thrill of shooting a fish. Had the cook, Brian, prepare the fish and had a great dinner with Roosevelt and Mykell.
Friday: Flew back to Nassau and ventured into downtown for a bit to do a walking tour by myself. Immediately turned off by how commercialized this city is. I mean, there was a Sbarro! Observed a few of the landmarks and headed to the souvenir shops. I can’t lie, I looked at all the tourists in Nassau and wondered why they would possibly want to stay there when there were so many other unspoiled islands waiting for them. Oh well, to each his own. Jumped on a flight back home, missing the people of Andros.
[pictures to come shortly]